8 Two Shinkansen trains, samurai, geisha and gold leaf ice cream April 13th
Sendai - Kanazawa
Another day of movement. Packed the backpack for 2 days and had the large suitcase in the lobby ready for shipping. Breakfast out of the way, and lunch box in hand, it was soon time to tuck in behind @Tomoko and head to the "Saturday busy" station. Heading south and then west today to #Kanazawa.
Today's explorations
Shinkansn - this was a journey in two parts. Hopped aboard the Green train and spent an hour heading south on the Tokyo line in a carriage that was full, not a spare seat in sight. There was the usual orderliness and calm efficiency as the train gobbled up the kms and the locals grabbed some zzzs. Views out the window showed increasing evidence of intensive agriculture, towns with typical two storey black roofed homes, more green, lots of cherry blossoms and still constant views of snow capped mountains. @Mac had Google Maps on to track the journey and told us to hold our breath as we whizzed though #Fukushima at 280 kph.
Similar views whooshed by - farming land, more green, towns and the constant rim of mountains.
This was the leg of the journey for lunch so we dipped into our cold offerings. The lady next to us was really up market. She had a bento box that she had bought at the station in #Tokyo. When the packaging was removed, there was a slight popping sound and steam started to rise from under the lid. Amazing - this was an instant heating solution! She proclaimed this as her favourite meal. Our little sandwiches looked a bit ordinary!
Welcome to #Kanazawa - so many people, Saturday must be a transit day. The entry way to the railway station in this city of just half a million people was a "wow" moment. A massive glass structure (@Tomoko called it "The Louvre") covered the sprawling entrance and provided shelter for the arriving visitors. The whole structure was supported by two towering wooden drums and featured fountains and gardens. The arch is referred to as "The Drum Gate" and its outline is synonymous with #Kanazawa. This entranceway which connected two multi storeyed shopping centres was also the busway and long, (patient) queues had formed.
Thankfully, our #Garden Hotel was literally one pedestrian crossing away and after shrugging off the backpack, we were off on our exploration of the city with @Tomoko.
All Day Bus Pass - Another ticket in hand, @Tomoko had us as part of the snaking queue for the green loop. Our first experience with cheek to jowl transport. I was lucky enough to secure a seat in this sardine tin of a ride but 80% of the passengers were hanging from the straps. Not sure that was necessary, because with other people glued to every side of your body, falling was not an option. The challenge was to "get off" because everyone needs to make their way to the front to show their ticket or pay. It was a tight squeeze - think of those salmon, fighting their way up stream in a melee of thousands of other salmon and you are close. Well, you didn't have to slither over anyone's back and you didn't die at the end - but the notion of making progress in the crush was similar.
This was @Tomoko getting us ready to be independent on thisx14 stop left hand and right hand loop. It is a similar concept to the hop on hop off buses with the route designed to enable visitors to travel between tourist hotspots
Nomura Family Samurai House - Walked the narrow streets of the #Nagamachi District on the land formerly owned by the #Nomura family and @Tomoko shared the historical details of the area from the pamphlet. The old samurai homes of the area were destroyed when the feudal system was abandoned in Japan and what we were seeing today, was an old Samurai home that was relocated to the area and restored by a local industrialist #Kubi Hikobei.
Removed our shoes and trailed any English-speaking guides we could find as we walked on the tatami mats, scaled smooth rock stairs, ducked under doorways and watched the huge carp in the pristine gardens. Paintings, $w0rd$ and scrolls decorated the tearoom and drawing room and every paper sliding screen featured an elaborate landscape by the famous artist #Sasaki Senkei. We did take the time to read the "thank you" notes received by the samurai and recorded in beautiful script on delicate scrolls Had a chuckle because it reminded me of those early #JPC days when @Noelene never failed in sending you a handwritten thank you acknowledging your contribution. Not sure we gifted any severed heads though!
The garden was very special and featured a stream, a waterfall, granite bridge, oversized goldfish, lanterns, multi-storied towers and a 400-year-old Japanese barberry tree. A very pleasant place to pull up a seat and drink in the moment.
Higashi Chayagai District - Moved on from stop 3 on the loop route to stop 10 with a little detour to an avenue of cherry blossoms that lune the #Asanogawa River. Absolutely perfect timing in #Kanazawa with the trees reaching full bloom. As any gentle breeze blew, we were under the shower of the softly falling petals. So special.
And just one street over from this canal was the district we were looking for, famed for its preserved wooden teahouses where geishas performed. We saw loads of signs advertising shows for the geisha that were coming, but only spotted one beautifully dressed Geisha daintily making her way to work. The district was a series of narrow alleyways, lined with artisan shops and restaurants, topped by a shrine and adorned with a blessed lucky charm of prosperity and fireproof with a corn husk - all retaining the wooden facades of the original buildings. Young men and women had taken advantage of the costume hire and were enjoying their visit in traditional dress.
Gold leaf was "the thing" in jewellery, ornaments, cosmetics and ice cream. And it was everywhere.
Had to try the ice cream cone - a soft serve topped with a layer of gold. No walking and eating in the street here - you had to sit in the "eating area" and consume.
Creating my own version of gold leaf lipstick
The area was predictably pristine clean. We watched on as one of the female rickshaw drivers noted a teeny tiny round sticker on the pathway. She halted her progress, put down the vehicle and proceeded to scrape this thumbnail sized sticker off the roadway! With this minute speck removed, she was on her way.
Believe it or not, that was almost the end of the sunlight. We had a "team meeting" and worked on a consensus for the shortest bus route home and had a little longer than the advertised 15-minute wait as both the sun and the temperature fell. Decisions around dinner were difficult- always so much choice. Finding it hard to believe that we chose a #Chinese restaurant option in #Japan - and we were not alone. Joined others from our group for a mixed bag of mine choices and were appreciative of the fact that it was once again, just a single pedestrian crossing to get us home.
@Mac took advantage of the ¥250 (that's $2.50 - wow) access to the vending machine almost right outside our door, that conveniently dispensed Jack Daniels and Coke. That could be dangerous, but he feels he needs to get rid of some of the loose coins we are carrying around.
Weather: warmest day 22 degrees
Steps: 12 621
KEEP CALM THOUGHT FOR THE DAY
I have everything I had 20 years ago, only it's all a little bit lower. Gypsy Rose Lee
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